Описание
В среднеазиатской кухне шашлыки из крупных (крупнее грецкого ореха) кусков мяса — большая редкость, если, конечно, не иметь в виду кебабы, приготовленные в тандыре или в казане. Думаю, во многом это обусловлено использованием самого мяса — баранины, с которой массивных кусков не нарежешь без удаления межмышечных пленок. Да и не в традициях азиатов пускать под нож годовалого, допустим, барашка. Он, разумеется, понежнее вдоволь побегавшего кучкара, но априори уступает ему по вкусу самого мяса — ого-го какого, вызревающего до темно-бордового цвета, но и требующего иной термической обработки.
Шаги
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А теперь обратите внимание на поперечный разруб бараньего седла, уготованного на шашлык (толщина разруба - 3-4 сантиметра). В нижней позвоночной части - один вид мяса. В «переводе» на говядину - это та самая вырезка, из которой готовят нежнейшие стейки. «Вырезка» барашка, хоть она и маленькая совсем, - еще нежнее. В надпозвоночной части - другой вид мяса, чуть грубее нижней, но с аналогичной говяжьей, конечно, не сравнить. В сочетании, причем на кости, - это песня. И не мне вам об этом рассказывать. Главное при разделке седла - убрать излишки жира и надмышечную пленку, которая сама по себе помеха в готовом блюде, а при жарке начнет закручивать и съеживать отруб. |
2
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Маринование мяса для шашлыка, повторюсь, дело вкуса, но баранье седлышко настолько во всех смыслах самодостаточно, что я обхожусь только солью, щепоткой острого молотого перца и щепоткой зиры, чего и вам желаю. Главное, мясо хорошо перемешать с приправами и специями, чтобы они распределились равномерно, и на какое-то время, пока идут другие подготовительные работы, оставить его в покое. И не забыть тонко нарезать несколько кусочков курдючного сала для подсадки его на шампуры. Для «дымка» и прочих традиционных и узнаваемых в шашлыке ароматов. |
3
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4
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5
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Что касается самих седлышек, их по два-три куска (иначе шампуры будут гулять из-за избытка веса) лучше всего нанизывать на два параллельно расположенных шампура. Причем так, чтобы острия шампуров прошли сквозь мякоть вдоль позвоночной кости максимально близко к самим позвонкам. Это хорошо фиксирует кусок седла, относительно немаленький по весу. Между кусками желательно оставить промежутки в полтора-два сантиметра, чтобы мясо жарилось равномерно, а вот ломтики курдючного сала можно нанизать поближе к мясу. Таким образом, и ему, а не только углям, кое-что от курдючного сала перепадет. |
6
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7
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При жарке столь объемистых кусков есть только один нюанс - шампуры с мясом несколько раз нужно будет переворачивать, добиваясь хорошего подрумянивания мяса с торцевых сторон. Затем их надобно будет снять с шампуров и переложить в прогретую миску, плотно закрыв ее крышкой или затянув фольгой на 10-15 минут. То есть так, как обычно поступают со стейками, чтобы они «отпотели» и окончательно дошли до готовности за счет остаточного жара. |
8
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